If you’ve read this blog for more than five minutes, you’ll know I have a thing for Vienna. Nay, a deep, deep love affair for Vienna. This city was our very first diplomatic posting together, and while I arrived with reservations, I left with nothing but a full heart. I don’t think I’ll ever entirely get over leaving. If you just mention Vienna in my presence, I’ll start muttering to myself about waltzes, and butterlaugencroissants and the Danube, and the misty-eyed waterworks will begin in 5…4…3…2… I fell, and I fell hard for this place, and to this day, while I know it was a necessity to leave, I’ll never entirely understand why we did. Vienna will always be my first (diplomatic) love.
I often get questions about where to go in Vienna so I finally pulled together my standard set of recommendations based on our three years there plus our three month return for the birth of our second child. Both times, we lived in the first district and you’ll note that this guide pretty much covers only that, with an odd exception here and there. Vienna is actually quite a large city and other neighborhoods are wonderful too with their own distinct personalities and feel. I don’t know them as well because they weren’t in our daily routine. Some of the other districts have changed tremendously, and so a more in-depth guide from a reputable source will be more helpful on questions outside of the first district.
I didn’t include museums or music in great detail because a good guidebook will give you all of that (if you’re coming for the weekend by the way, we love the Top 10 Vienna Guide and if you live in Vienna, it’s great to have a couple of copies on hand for guests). It goes without saying that you shouldn’t miss something at the Opera (don’t skip a champagne at the bar at intermission) or the Musikverein; try to fit in the Kunsthistoriche Museum, the Albertina and the Belvedere, and take a ride – or at least, admire – how impeccably clean and maintained Vienna’s horse drawn carriages are. If you can swing it, make it to a ball and waltz the night away. Better yet, take said carriage to the ball for the most grand entrance you will ever have. Be sure to save a Sunday for a walk in the Vienna Woods followed by jugs and jugs of white wine at one of heuriger in the 18th and 19th districts.
In the end, much of what I love about Vienna is the fact that there are parts of it that don’t actually change all that much, or at least, not all that fast. Those are the parts I return to every chance I get, and many of those parts are here in this guide. They make me feel that time is not slipping through my hands, that there are constants we can return to in this life. There are lots of wonderful guides about other neighborhoods and new restaurants and fun shops, and it’s wonderful to see a little step towards something new in Vienna too. But for the list below, I included the places nearest and dearest to my heart. I enjoy returning to them not only because things are just as I remembered them to be, but often times, because they are even better than I remembered them to be in the first place.
I hope you enjoy your stay in the “city of my dreams”.
Wien, Wien, nur du allein
Sollst stets die Stadt meiner Träume sein!
Dort, wo ich glücklich und selig bin,
Ist Wien, ist Wien, mein Wien !
The Food
The best dinner:
Il Melograno
Blumenstockgasse 5
In my humble opinion, the best meal in Vienna. Roberto is the twenty something guy that runs this restaurant – no menu, just what’s fresh every day. And if you don’t like what he describes, tell him what you do like and he’ll make it work. It’s not fussy, but it’s definitely a “sit back and enjoy the meal” kind of place. If you like good wine, it is definitely a place for that too, and they specialize in wines from the south of Italy and Sicily. Homemade limoncello should never be turned down for dessert. If truffles are in season, do not skip the pasta. Tell Roberto that we sent you.
The best schnitzel:
Café Central
Herrengasse 14
In a city that practically invented “institutions”, this is one of the best. Cafe Central is probably one of the most historic cafes in Vienna, straight up old-school, but it still does the best schnitzel in town if you ask me. If they are offering fresh pike perch from local lakes, that comes a close second. Dessert must be the marillen palatschinken (apricot crepes), especially if accompanied by the regular evening piano player tickling the ivories. If you are here in the afternoon, partake in the great coffee and beautiful pastries. Also, weirdly for such an old-school institution, it has both air conditioning and wi-fi. This is rare in Vienna. I’m a fan of all the old-school cafes in Vienna: the grander, the better but if I had to be monogamous, Central has my heart.
The best burger and brunch:
Motto Am Fluss
Schwedenplatz, in the ferry station
Burgers are rare to come by in Vienna so if you get homesick, Motto am Fluss makes a great one. Ironically, they also make a great “light” breakfast called the “light haus” which was my go-to often, as this place was right around the corner from us. Food in general is excellent, no English menu but very hip vibe, and great views of the Danube canal since it is practically cantilevered over it as at the ferries to Bratislava roll in and out.
The best see and be seen lunch:
Fabio’s
Tuchlauben 4-6
Sometimes I don’t get this place – it’s called Fabio’s for crying out loud. But Vienna doesn’t often do contemporary, and while this place has been around seemingly forever, it’s not quite as forever as some of it’s counterparts from the 1700’s. And Fabio’s still continues to be just as hip as was the day it opened. If a Viennese invites you to lunch there, you’re in with the in crowd. A plate of pasta, a glass of chilled rose or bubbles, and a good spot on the summer deck means you’re in for a bit for a bit of fun, a bit of people watching, and a bit of envy. Relax and enjoy!
Best everyday lunch:
Joma
Hoher Markt, 10
In the glory days of our posting in Vienna, this place was occupied by Limes, a favorite of ours. Limes is no longer there but in its place is Joma, which is owned by the Figlmuller family, and it quickly became a favorite while I was there on my “preg-evac”. Salads aren’t that popular of a menu item in Vienna but this place did a great “superfood” salad, as well as a burger, and was just a great all around place to meet for an every day lunch. We miss our regular place, but Joma filled the shoes as best as a restaurant can.
Best seafood:
Strandhaus
Naschmarkt
Located at the start of the Naschmarkt so if you’re there, it’s a great place to grab lunch and do some market people watching. Generally I avoided fish like the plague in land-locked Vienna – but this place (and anything Roberto from Melograno serves) is an exception. If you like white fish, then trying out some of the pike (zander) which are local the nearby lakes is nice, grilled, filleted and served with baby potatoes (Café Central also does a good version of this too). People either love the Naschtmarkt or the hate it, and whatever perception you have of the market is likely the perception you’ll have of the restaurants there. If you do go to the market, bring patience, watch your pockets, have fun and be prepared to advocate for yourself during tense bulk olive pricing debates.
Best Museum Lunch:
Do and Co at the Albertina
Albertinaplatz
Albertina was one of my favorite museums and lunch here was always nice and great food, part of the Do and Co family. Kind of mod interior, food nearly always delivers and they do a particularly nice job with the asparagus in the spring.
Best Quirky Snack:
Trzesniewski’s
Dorotheagasse, just off the Graben
This place was just bonkers to me. It’s a great place to pop in for a snack. They only have little open faced sandwiches, they all cost one euro, and they come accompanied by these little mini-beers, one euro also. Then you just stand and eat it and move on. It’s really worth a little gander since it’s so unique. Also a Vienna institution – right across the street from Café Hawelka, who’s owner who was 100 when he died just a few years ago. Cafe Hawelka still allows smoking so its nearly impossible to sit inside unless you’re a brooding artist, but having a little something at Trzesniewski’s outside gives you a view of the literary souls next door.
Best Wurstl Stand:
Bitzinger
Albertinaplatz
There is no shortage of sausage stands in Vienna but my favorite by far was Bitzkringer – I think because it serves something so traditional as street sausage out of this modern glass cube. You eat the sausage with your hands but they serve your white wine in a glass on the street. What’s not to love? My diplo-husband always had the frankfurter hot dog, and I always take the kaisekrainer (kind of like a bratwurst with cheese, mustard, brown bread). Love their little red uniforms too. Whoever is working there will often pretend not to understand what you are ordering, but give it you anyway (because really they understand, they just want to make you feel like they don’t know what you are talking about due to pronunciation, ha!).
Best Pizza:
L’Osteria
Braunerstrasse, 11
When our favorite pizza place, run by the Melograno family closed in Vienna, we just flat out stopped eating pizza since it was always so disappointing. But when we returned, we stumbled across a new outpost of L’Osteria just down the street from our apartment. It’s actually a German chain but the pizza (and pasta) were excellent and it became a weekly staple. Not only was it good, but it’s also quite affordable. I’m not entirely sure how they make money on the pizza since it’s quite cheap and each pizza is about the size of the entire first district. As a bonus, the Aperol Spritzes were reliable, always a winner for us, and you can take a few free bags of gummy bears on your way out which made it a winner with the diplo-tot. Also, even the local pizza joint in Vienna has chandeliers because, well, it’s Vienna.
Best Cranky at First, but then Lovely, Staff at a Cafe:
Café Griensteidl
Michaelerplatz, 2
If left to my own devices, I could really make a post just about cafes about Vienna but plenty of others before me have done that so I’ll limit myself to just a few. We happened to like Griensteidl a lot; like many cafes in Vienna, there are lots of tourists sometimes, but there are also lots of people who have been coming to the same place, sitting at the same table for years. The staff can be a little salty at first pass, but they have always come around to be friendly towards the end if you meet them halfway. We ended up coming here a lot for a warm bowl of rindsuppe so it’s a comforting spot for us, though the views from the windows over Michaelerplatz and the Hofburg don’t hurt either.
Best “Austrian” Breakfast:
Café Korb
Brandstatte, 9
Old school Austrian café, but located right on the intersection of Brandstatte and Tuchlaubengasse; I call it the “carriage superhighway” since you can watch all the horsedrawn carriages go by as you sit outside. We always like to go for breakfast – order the “Wursteleierspies” – scrambled eggs with wurstl, it’s an old school classic. Also right next door is a great place called Delia’s for more modern fare, and a wonderful place for an aperitif or nightcap. They always have blankets on their chairs if its chilly, and sitting outside is preferable.
Best Hotel Brunch Breakfast:
Palais Hansen Kempinski
Schottenring, 24
One of the newer hotels on the scene (and on the ring), the Kempinski group took over a Palais that had seen much better days but is back in full-force. When we returned to Vienna, we had a great hotel brunch for one of the holidays and they balanced making it special but making it completely approachable for our toddler. Just an all around wonderful meal – we don’t do this kind of meal often, but if you’re celebrating something, brunch here is fantastic and you probably won’t need to eat for three days following. Lunch here with a quick steak tartare and champagne is also lovely.
Best Hotel Restaurant:
The Bank, Park Hyatt
Am Hof, 2
Similar to the Kempinski and others, the Park Hyatt is newer game in town and arguably the best of the crop of newbies. And if you’re not sleeping there, at least make time for a dinner if you can. As the hotel is in a former Bank of Austria building, the interior of the restaurant, which is what used to be the main bank lobby, is striking – there is just no other way to put it. And the food delivers too. A beautiful evening.
Best Quintessential Dessert:
Sachertorte at the Hotel Sacher
Philharmoniker Strasse, 4
It’s hard to come to Vienna and not eat a Sacher torte. It’s not even my favorite dessert, but it just goes hand in hand with Vienna, that I’ve learned to love it if I’m there. Do not, repeat NOT, accept imitation Sachertortes. Hotel Sacher is open later too, so it’s a great little place for a nightcap + dessert. The hotel is located right behind the opera so we used to go all the time after the performances. If you really want to soak up as much of Vienna as possible, order one sacher torte and one strudel and share with whomever you’re with. I was also prone to their ice coffee in the summertime. NB, if you have a coat when you come it, you’re obligated to check it, so have a few euros on hand. It’s kind of a weird Vienna thing, but once you get used to checking your coat and then go home, you’ll wonder how you ever stood the mess of everyone’s jackets hanging off of every surface.
Best Old School Gelato:
Eis Tuchlauben
Tuchlaubengasse, 15
Just great all around ice cream, a classic “parlor” if you want to sit and eat one of those ice cream bowls the size of your head. Great flavors, beautiful quality and the best chocolate ice cream in Vienna hands down. If you get invited to a Vienna dinner party and you come with a huge takeout box from Tuchlauben in tow as your contribution to dessert, I guarantee you’ll get invited back.
Best New School Gelato:
Eis Greissler
Rotenturm Strasse, 14
This place opened while I was living there and has fantastic ice cream, all organic made from milk sourced from their own farms. I’m pretty sure they can show you a picture of the cow your ice cream came from. They can be a bit more inventive with flavors and there is no parlor, just take out. The shop is adorable with the blue and white gingham and cows and plates – try the butterkeks (poundcake) flavor or kirsh (black cherry), my favorites that you can’t seem to get other places. Also, this place is basically right across the street from our apartment so it’s a bit sentimental – you can spot it now by the crazy line outside the door.
The Drinks
Best Oldest of the Old School Aperitif:
Zum Schwarzen Kameel
Bognergasse, 5
This place is way old school – they’ve been around since the 1600’s. They still smoke inside, so I always sat outside, but it makes for fine people watching, especially on a Saturday (nb, they are closed Sunday). This is one of the THE institutions in Vienna. Order an aperol spritz or a champagne and watch the crowd; these are Viennese that know each other from a hundred years ago or more, and in a hundred years from now, this place will be exactly the same, except with their grandchildren in it, which is why I adore it.
Best Drink with a View:
Onyx Bar at Do and Co
Stephansplatz, 12
This is one of those “it is imperative that you go there” kind of places. Go for a champagne cocktail or other libation of choice, but just make sure you go. I guarantee you’ll never get a view of Stephansdom, the main cathedral, like that in your life. It’s a great place to grab a drink before dinner – say before going to Melograno – or a night cap, but late at night it gets considerably more crowded and a bit uppity for my taste. There is also a restaurant there, its’ good, but you don’t see the view from the dining tables. The view is just as gorgeous, if not more so, in particularly bad weather like rain or snow; it gives you the feeling of being inside a snow globe and continues to feel more magical if you have another round or two. NB, sometimes the door is hard to find to this place – look for the weird Almaz diamond store, door is next to it and take the elevator up.
Best for a Glass of Champagne:
Blaue Bar at the Hotel Sacher
Philharmoniker Strasse, 4
This is great for a night cap, and its a beautiful jewel box of a bar. It’s small and can get warm, but all of that blue velvet and old world wood paneling is simply something you just don’t find very often. A great place to cozy up and just be old-school. Dress up a bit, it’s that kind of place. Also, the Hotel Sacher features prominently in the Third Man (the main character lives there – they filmed it there so you can see how much they had to restore) and was the home of British troops post war. But if you’re a sucker for beautiful bars, this one just might move you to tears. One of the only places in the world I will drink alone for the sheer pleasure of it.
The Souvenirs
Best Gifts for the Office:
Manner Flagship Store
Stefansplatz, 7
Check out the Manner Store at the start of Rotenturmstrasse right off the Stephansplatz for every variation that you could possibly have of this historic cookie and its cousins. However, the best are still the original ones that come packaged in the vintage metal, salmon colored tin – they make for a great gift if you add your own ribbon.
Best Grocery Store for Gourmet Sundries:
Julius Meinl
Am Graben, 19
Perhaps the most beautiful grocery store I’ve ever seen – and I used to shop there almost every week, even if it was just for a little something. Gorgeous hardwood paneling cover the store… the butchers wear a shirt and tie and put their name on the ticket so that you know who exactly cut your meat… the leather handled shopping carts with the attached magnifying glasses so that older patrons can read the labels… The store can be expensive but it’s also a great place to pick up small beautifully packaged food gifts – like the Meinl Cocoa or Meinl Coffees and coffee accoutrements, and if you really owe someone a thank you, they will make a hand-packed custom gift basket to order. Upstairs, a gorgeous collection of marzipan and beautiful tea containers are just waiting to be photographed.
Best Place to Pick Up an Art Piece:
Galerie Wolfrum
Augustinergasse, 10 – right behind the Albertina
This gallery carries lots of local artists and pieces. While not cheap, if you are younger or on a smaller budget, you can still find truly unique pieces to fit your budget. I’m a big fan of the Sissi Farassat photographs but lots of prints, pastels, and other pictures are available as well.
Best Classic Souvenir:
Muhlbauer Hats
Seilergasse 10
Muhlbauer makes handwoven panamas and other hats, still made in Vienna (though I think some are woven in nearby Bratislava). These classic shapes make you feel like you really should have a hat on. They also have a clothing store across the street where they aggregate some cool brands and looks, but the hats are why you’ll come back again and again. Something about carrying a hatbox around town says I love Vienna.
Best Sparkly and (Very) Expensive Souvenirs:
A.E. Koechert
Neuer Markt 15
Vienna’s jeweler since the 1800’s, and jewelers to the Hapsburgs. If you can swing a velvet box from here with something sparkly in it, go for it. There is no way it won’t be gorgeous. If window shopping is more your thing (and their windows are always gorgeous), right next door there’s a Belgian-inspired little cafe called Le Bol, and a great place for macaroons and other sweets called Oberlaa (if you’re headed to a dinner party and can’t afford to grab a hostess gift at Koecher, a torte from Oberlaa is a perfectly acceptable substitute).
Best Sparkly but Not Expensive Souvenirs:
Swarovski
Kartner Strasse 24
The jewelry itself can be hit or miss, but at least pass by the flag ship store. Ever since the big renovation and rebranding while we lived there, the store can have some pretty amazing installations in the front windows built entirely out of crystals. Swarovski often has displays of clothing that designers have embellished with multitudes of crystals.
Best Expensive Breakables:
J. L. Lobmeyr
Kartner Strasse 26
Quite simply, the most beautiful glass ever made. Definitely stop by the shop, it’s just amazing. Notable standouts are an entire upstairs devoted to chandeliers and their blown paper thin glass pieces downstairs. However, something like the Loos decanter, which you will see in all sorts of design museums, is more sturdy for if you’ll be traveling home afterwards. It’s not cheap, but it’s an investment in a classic. And glass bonbonnierre, you will be mine!
More Expensive Breakables, Porcelain Variety:
Royal Augarten
Spiegelgasse, 3
Since these guys have been in the porcelain business since about the early 1700’s, they know a thing or two about what they are doing. When we first arrived, I didn’t give Royal Augarten too much thought since I associated them more with floral patterns and those little porcelain figurines dressed up in old fashioned costumes with the slightly creepy faces. But they are oh-so much more than that. Today they work with a variety of contemporary artists on pieces that are truly ahead of their time, but it’s the black and white Josef Hoffman coffee service that I aspire to one day. One day! And if you fancy yourself a VIP, they can cast a porcelain bust of you (really, is there a more luxurious selfie to be toting around?) or completely customize a porcelain dinner service. Else, in the more affordable category, you can outsource the design work to your tots at the children’s studio which allows you to hand paint a small piece, which they fire and send to you a week later. Because nothing in Vienna is instant gratification.
Best Less Expensive (but not cheap) Breakables:
Riedel Stemware
The gold standard in wine glasses around the world, but what really stands out are their decanters. The Amadeo decanter in particular is really striking, but the “O” is a more affordable buy. You can buy it in the US, or other countries, but it’s actually one of the few things that is cheaper in Vienna. There is a Riedel Store in the airport (or used to be), and you can also buy Riedel at Wien and Co wine stores (pair with with a bottle or two of Austrian whites for a particularly fine gift), and in few other shops around town.
Best Von Trapp Family Chic:
Lodenplankl
Michaelerplatz 6
Everything you could possible need to live out all of your Sound of Music fantasies, and let’s face it, haven’t we all had a thought or two about that Captain Von Trapp gentleman? Everything from full on dirndl’s to small touches like the feathered pins that go on hats and capes, it’s tops when it comes to traditional Austrian wear. Like any Vienna institution, the store has been there forever, but it’s worth a visit alone just to look over some of the letters that have come in from customers around the world back when letterhead and corresponding with your vendor were both a thing. Actual Loden are virtually indestructible if well-made and the shop repairs their own too, no matter how old it might be. How’s that for standing by your product?
Best Way to Greet the Rain in Style:
Wilhelm Jungmann & Neffe
Albertinaplatz 3
Because you never knew that umbrellas could be so beautiful…or come in so many colors…The window displays alone are enough to confuse your eyes, thinking you are taking in confections of candy and sweets rather than one of the most practical items of daily living. And for the gentleman caller in your life, many of the patterns have matching bowties. Step inside to see not only the beautiful woodwork, but to take in the feeling of “this is how it’s done.”
Best Sweets for Any Occassion:
Cafe Demel Kohlmarkt 14
Not just for coffee, the front shop of Cafe Demel has candy, sweets, cakes and anything else to satisfy your sweet tooth. But the truly beautiful packaging, intricate details, and expertly arranged display cases are just as indulgent for your eyes as they are for your stomach. No minimalism here, this is a place where even the tiniest chocolate bar is a feast in every way.
Best Gifts for Children:
Steiff
Braunerstrasse 3
Technically a German brand, not an Austrian one, but just as beloved here in Vienna. Old-school because what else? Expensive but supremely made stuffed animals of any kind, although the teddy bears are what what Steiff is most known for. A good friend of mine bought a stuffed eagle toy here, only to come home and notice it had a small tear in it. She went back to the store, assuming a new one had to be ordered but the sales lady whipped out a sowing kit right then and there and expertly stitched it back professionally on the spot. Now how can you not shop for toys in a place like that?
Best Extravagance for Your Feet:
Rudolf Scheer & Sohne
Braunerstrasse 4-6
Fate has not yet allowed me to win a lottery, but if I ever did, I would fly myself right back to Vienna to order a completely bespoke pair of black riding boots by this little operation that has been making shoes by hand for seven generations. Something tells me I would own them forever. Until then, a walk to their beautifully appointed shop will still help you appreciate the finer things in life.
Best Relaxation for Yourself:
Park Hyatt Arany Spa
Am Hof, 2
Treatment rooms that are silent, therapists that know what to do without too much chit chat, and a beautiful underground pool (not easy to come by in Vienna). Spas of international calibre are a newer thing in Vienna but this gorgeous space delivers through and through, although the desk staff may or may not speak English (they will, however, speak Russian). Book a little something for yourself and give yourself time on either end to enjoy the best relaxation in town in the little rest spaces and pool area.
The Sleeps
Vienna is a city that has only recently started coming around on hotels; for a long time, this scene was sleepy and the last renovations took place seemingly when the Hapsburgs left town. But as we moved out, a wave of luxury hotels came in which forced everyone to step up their game a bit. And that’s a good thing. Since we lived in Vienna, we didn’t often stay in hotels though we have sampled some coming in and out of town for other things, and while setting up friends and such. Below is a short list but go with what you know speaks to you. My one piece of advice is that, if this is your first trip to Vienna or if you have a particularly short trip, location will be worth it’s weight in gold so spring for something in the first district or on/close to the ring. The ability to walk nearly everywhere is invaluable.
Best for Palais living:
Palais Coburg
Coburgbastei, 4
There’s always a part of Vienna that insists on keeping a low profile. If this is you, look no further than the Palais Coburg, one of Vienna’s petite hotels but also most beautiful, and also most discrete (attention celebrities, Babylon patrons, ousted government leaders, and others who operate in the gray, attention). This is the kind of place that you stay when you don’t want too many people to know you’re in town. It’s a hotel but it also has a bit of a “home” kind of feel and it’s not uncommon for guests to hole up in there for awhile. The building and ground are gorgeous, restaurant is now a two Michelin starred establishment by Silvio Nickol (haven’t tried the restaurant in the latest iteration), and it’s not hard to find a quiet corner to sit down and think for a bit.
Best spend of new money:
Park Hyatt
Am Hof, 2
Of the new luxury kids in town, this is perhaps the most impressive, although they are all strong contenders in their own right (Kempinski and Ritz Carlton being the other two). This is one of those places where you could hold court pretty much all day long: power lunch at The Bank, swim and spa in the afternoon, aperitif in bar, and nightcaps in the library. If tete-a-tetes are your thing, then the Park Hyatt is your home. This place was still a Bank Austria building when we lived there the first time and the renovations, especially of the restaurant which is in the main bank hall, are just stunning.
Best “more is more” hotel:
Hotel Imperial
Kartner Ring, 16
It doesn’t really get more Imperial than the Hotel Imperial. Draperies, brocades, gold leaf….this is the home for the maximalist in you assuming you can forgive a bit of historical juju. If you’ve ever fancied yourself a Hapsburg in your spare time, you’ll love this place. Plus being the equidistant equivalent of a hop, skip and a jump to both the Opera and the Musiverein, means that your musical self will be satisfied too. Starwood members take note, Imperial is part of the family and if you regularly get suite upgrades, this is a great place to put them to good use. Note though that this is an older building and if you’re visiting in the peak of summer, it might not ever get cool enough for you temperature wise, and requests for ice aren’t usually met with buckets but rather individual cubes on silver trays. If Grand Dame hotels are your thing, also consider the Sacher (swoon, my choice personally for the “dames”), the Grand, and the Bristol.
Best view for the money:
Hotel Am Stephansplatz
Stephansplatz, 9
This hotel used to have a rather divey hotel establishment on the premises but underwent a renovation about 5 years ago to become Hotel Am Stephansplatz. It doesn’t get any more central to Vienna than this. They usually have quite reasonable rates (though keep in mind that if there are big meetings in Vienna or peak seasons, it can be unreasonable everywhere). A great breakfast which is included helps set you off for the day, which you can enjoy with Cathedral views so close you feel like you could touch them.
Best place to negotiate a government rate:
Le Meridien
Opernring, 13
Right on the ring, the Meridien often wins for us for the combination of great location and a great rate. They often will give a military or government rate – it might not be listed publicly but call and ask, especially if you’re part of the Starwood family. Rooms are small, and the finishes are contemporary which means that sometimes there are odd things like glass half walls where there should be doors. But we found them to be friendly and accommodating and they were helpful with a number of things when we or friends stayed with children, so that’s always a winner in my book. They usually have fun art installations down in the lobby in keeping with the Le Meridien feel.
Best new kid on the block:
Grand Ferdinand
Schubertring, 10
I haven’t yet seen this hotel as it is literally brand new, but have heard good reviews in terms of value for money and a location that’s close enough. Taking advantage of the Karlsplatz renaissance (when we lived in Vienna, you could cross two meters in that area without stepping on a syringe), the neighbordhood has cleaned up big time and fun stuff like hotels and places to eat are following suit. Looks like rooms are small but fun decor, and reasonable prices.
Best for the arty crowd
Sans Souci Vienna
Burggasse, 2
If you want to live with an original Leichtenstein for awhile, this is your place. Artworks are the name of the game here, with the champagne colored interiors a close second. This is another one I haven’t stayed in, and one of the few on the list outside of the 1st but given that it’s practically located on top of the MuseumsQuartier means that if you’re headed to Vienna for art, art, and more art, you might as well also sleep with art too.
Best for longer-term or apartment-style stays:
Vienna Residences
Am Graben
Have I convinced you to move into Vienna yet? Good. If a long term stay is on your agenda, then we can definitely recommend our apartment through Vienna Residences. How many times can you say you got to live on the Graben? We had the larger of the three properties in this particular building (there is also a one bedroom and a studio), although this is just one of many apartments they manage throughout the city. All are furnished and most are central – as any apartments in central Vienna, there can be a few hiccups when you first get started, but ultimately, if you communicate clearly and are persistent, the little things should sort themselves out quickly so that you can get on to the business of enjoying life in Vienna quickly!
Need to Be Convinced with Gorgeous Pictures?
This list is amazing. Since we live in the 19th, there are quite a few places you have here that we have yet to visit. Can’t wait to try them all out!!
So glad it gave you a few ideas – let me know how you like them! And oh the 19th with all its green space – you’ll have to do a guide to the neighborhood!
I love your blog and I love this list. The one thing missing: top things to do with your children. I’ll be doing my rest stop in Vienna when we PCS this summer and want to get the kids out of the hotel as much as possible in our roughly 36 hours in the city. Any parks, museums, entertainments you can recommend? Thanks!!
Hi Lynne – thanks for your kind words! You’re right – I should do an addendum for children, although my actual time with children in Vienna was a little more limited. Let’s see…
Summertime, we love the film and food festival on the Rathausplatz if that’s going on while you’re there. We love the Burggarten and Volksgarten (especially when all the roses are in bloom, makes for beautiful pictures), although those aren’t specifically playgrounds but they were close to us. The green spaces of the prater can be lovely for a picnic, or for the biergartens and outdoor dinners.
For rainy days, the new aquarium in the flak tower was a hit with my daughter who is a huge animal lover (she also loved the zoo at schoenbrunn). And else we would just take her to regular exhibits at museums that we liked. The albertina has a really nice children’s section in their museum store.
Kids always love the tram rides, my daughter would ride around on the #1 and #2 trams with my husband for hours…
And if your children are a little older and you don’t mind something a little quirky, then the pool inside a boat on the Badeschiff, but not sure if it is still open.
If you have kids and want to do the vienna woods or walks around there with dinner at heuriger, you will find many viennese doing the exact same thing with their kids.
Else Wien Info does a good family guide and I would use that a lot on preg-evac to keep up with events : https://www.wien.info/en/vienna-for/families and they have a little downloadable brochure guide with the main attractions for kids that’s quite handy too.
Hope that helps and have a wonderful trip!
That is amazing. We’ll definitely have a wonderful time, and will come back during our Frankfurt tour to do more of your suggestions. Thanks!
I hope you have a great trip – and what a central location for your next tour! Enjoy!
I echo what others have said about a lovely list. Some of the shops I recognize already from visits, but Mulbauer is a new and very tempting one and I have already identified ‘the hat’. Steiff toys last forever and . . . I could go on, and on . . . Jan
So glad you enjoyed it! And I think you’ll love Muhlbauer, just such a classic. I still have mine, it comes out every summer!