Notes from the Field: Swingin' Shanghai, Part II

Welcome back to Part II of Notes from the Field, Shanghai edition! Below is the remaining portion of the interview - don't miss Part I here.  What do you think, are your bags packed?

Photograph by Fritz Hoffman via National Geographic.

****************************************************************************

When did you realize you were far from home?
About the only thing that I could not procure in China were quality, normal, Q-Tips… the local ones are quite flimsy, and can be quite sharp.  Yes, this is odd, but so odd that it is about the only memorable that made me realize how far I was from home.  Of course, there are social differences between Americans and Mainland Chinese, but these are not enormous gaps.  I never really felt far from home, as the country can be quite comfortable if you can adapt to the differences. 

What’s the most important thing about re-creating your home at post?
I’m an easy move… it doesn’t take much.  I’m happy with very little, so I don’t feel the need to create home.  I like the ultimate flexibility in moving “light.”  I’m very urban oriented, so creating “home” is finding the local places in which I am comfortable and enjoy being at.  Of course, a good coffee shop is a must, along with a nice, clean place for quick, cheap eating is also a dire necessity.  I had that all in Shanghai, so I was in want of nothing.  In fact, in my apartment building, about the only request I made in 3 years was for the building management to put more shelves in a closet so I would have a suitable space for my shoes… such shelves were custom installed and painted to match the closet within 30 minutes of my request. 

Three things you can’t live without at post?
A good bed on which to rest my weary head, omnipresent elements of potential chaos that give vibrancy and life to a place, and of course, access to a good cup of coffee.

One thing you thought you couldn’t live without but have had to?
Easy access to internet/media.  Yes, the internet is all over China, and it is accessible everywhere, rather cheaply.  However, being China, both are heavily filtered, and many “international” sites are blocked.  As for the internet, you can easily (and cheaply) set up a VPN for home access, and you find ways around it.  International media is somewhat accessible, but it is often delayed in hitting the stands or the airwaves.  Luckily, for those expats living in “international” housing situations, the television media is quite normal.  Not the same for your mainland Chinese colleagues, but in most cases, they are so accustomed to the situation, it’s not an issue for them (and they, more than anyone, know ways around everything!).

What’s your daily uniform?

Shanghai is a fairly sweaty place, it can be hot, and it can be cool.  I usually compared the weather to that of Richmond, VA, with a bit more humidity.  As for the daily uniform, well, business casual is all the rage, but men’s suits are acceptable everywhere.  As for the ladies, normal business attire, whatever is comfortable for the climate.  Yes, Shanghai people are also known for wearing pajamas all the time, even when doing their shopping.  But the pajamas are always very clean and fresh looking… so there is a bar of respectability. 

You’re having guests over on Saturday night, what’s on the menu?
Whatever is desired by my guests, I’d make it happen.  Shanghai is a “reservation” city, people still make reservations for all restaurants.  From local fare to the heights of international cuisine, it is all available, in price ranges from ultra-cheap to highly extravagant.  Best of all, with just a call, it is perfectly acceptable for it to be delivered and/or served in your own home, from start to finish (including cleanup) for just a little more… Yes, this is normal in Shanghai.

Dream post for next assignment? Why?

Well, I recognize I’m a bit different.  I don’t have dependents, and currently without a significant other, so I tend to be drawn to the more exciting of destinations.  I like to describe my preferences as “leaning most towards cities with bling,” most likely in fast-developing/recently developed countries.  I am obviously fascinated with Asia, and love it all.  I expect my career path to take a route more akin to the Shanghai, Mumbai, Rio De Janeiro routes….

One thing you wished someone had told you before arriving?

Our diplomatic presence in China is growing in leaps and bounds, and oddly, because in the past, it was not seen as a great place to be posted.  Consequently, there weren’t many colleagues out there that could tell me much about it.  In the end, people are pretty decisive by the end of their tour, either they loved it, or they despised it (and never plan on going back).  I am the former, I look forward to returning someday, as it was a fascinating experience at a fascinating time, and that will continue for the next many many years to come.  Things have changed now, as evidenced by the sheer numbers of U.S. diplomats looking to get their foot in the China door (look at the bidding numbers if you can, but be careful, most jobs are taken before they are even open for bidding by linked bidders coming from AIP posts.  China is a lifetime career investment… learning Chinese language was easier than I had anticipated, but it needs dedicated and motivated investment in time and energy to develop.  China is now a fantastic place for families, singles, LGBT, and visitors.  Excellent housing options, plenty of things to do, an interesting (if contrived, on some levels) culture, and a general feeling of optimism from Chinese people about their future, the future of China, and their role in the world.  Yes, China has problems, and it certainly brings up endless amounts of international concern.  I am certainly not an apologist for their behaviors, but after this experience I can understand the challenges involved and am able to understand why it is the way it is.  With the younger post-Mao generation just starting to assume higher leadership roles in an elementally traditional Confucian-based society, the international openness China has had in the past 20 years, which will continue forever, will have a huge impact on its relationship (and behavior) in the world stage.  I was lucky enough to be in a diplomatic position to directly increase that openness, which we did on record levels (which have now been surpassed).  The best part is, with the unprecedented rate of change and growth, anyone can see the impact this change has had, and the impact it will bring in the future for the people of Mainland China.  I guess I wish someone had told me to abandon any old image/thought from China’s recent past (which, as a voracious news junkie, are images etched in my head).  It is not/not the Mainland China that most Americans seem to think it is, as it is completely new and evolving (usually for the better) by the year, month, day, and minute. 

Parting thoughts?

Imagine 1.3 billion people, their lives improving exponentially over each generation, where competition (social, economic, and political) is EVERYWHERE, and is in every element of your life.  The only way to get ahead is to be better, faster, and willing to lose it all in the game of getting ahead.  This is the modern Mainland China.  Imagine if you were a Chinese teenager who wanted to go to university.  You have 1 chance, to take 1 test, for 1 major of study, for 1 school to make or break your future.  And even then, those series of 1 chances have tens of thousands of other competitors… can you deal with that kind of competition?  In the end, the smart and future-thinking international diplomat will have to deal with similar competition just to get a posting in “The China” (as my mother calls it).  If you are interested, I highly suggest you immediately jump in and learn how to swim in the Chinese language and culture pool.  You’d be surprised how learning these new strokes will matter in the course of any foreign service career.